Saturday, 7 February 2015

Sew and Go !


More than ever I am loving a sewing make that takes me from machine to wear, in quick-smart time. Feels like a while since I had the disposable hours to muse over whether I preferred pleats, gathering or shirring in the back of a dress -and with the time to try all three ! And so it was that a while ago, my dream tunic walked towards me...shop-bought and worn by a friend. It was the kind of simple, but stylish shape that you cant go wrong with....thick tights and boots, jeans and leggings - it offers itself to all manner of 'throw it on over the top' combos...my kind of wardrobe 'staple'! I traced the pattern shape from the obliging wearer and have made four so far (two as modelled above !)

On pattern paper it is a very straight forward shape, but with added ''wings'' that flare out at the bottom. These can hang either with a 'waterfall effect' as on the left below, or else, by sewing down the sides of the 'wings' on the front and back pieces, you create a more 'boxy' effect.
I have made a version in a heavier, dark green wool which hangs pretty solidly and so the waterfall effect seemed to work best to soften it.
No zips, darts or hems and you can even leave the edges raw (with non-fraying wool) for an 'organic' feel, or make a feature of a pretty selvedge edge...
The only additional requirement was a therapeutic, bias-binding making session for the neck and armholes, for which I raided my velvet and floral fabric scraps.
It has been such an easy-wearing and warm tunic, without feeling smothered in heavy winter 'woolies'. I have linen in waiting for a Summer version.
Oh, and they're good for swishing about in too ;o)

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Thursday, 4 December 2014

Toadstools Dress

The Sewing Tree may be without its cloak of leaves, but for the rest of us, the Winter togs are well and truly out ! I have been seeking out new wools and styles for Eloise's first Winter, as well as for her Granny's Christmas present. The latter purchase is a cosy, red ribbed wool that invites itself to wrap and envelop its wearer...more on that in a following post !

For the little lady of the house, I found a lilac wool mix, the right weight and texture for a small girl's dress, that can be worn over long sleeves and tights. I decided to make it in a pinafore style, with easy on/off'able access and that can be whisked on from the bottom end - rather than the ever unpopular 'over the head' route. In the absence of a pattern, I started with a dress that I know fits her comfortably as my template. Having traced the skirt and bodice and with a bit of free-hand sketching for the pinafore tabs, (I'm no artist), I had a workable pattern for making my toile.


I decided to face the bodice of the dress with a contrasting fabric and sought out a toadstool motif to work with some wooden buttons bought at a craft fair. Amazing how much time you can spend comparing the merits and colour schemes of  toadstools (!)

The decorative buttons disguise much more usable snap poppers underneath and I used a remaining piece of the toadstools fabric to embellish a simple patch pocket, just big enough for small girls things ;)

It is yet to be properly trialled, but rest assured it will be given rigorous product testing by the owner! I am hoping it will be the kind of wearable, home-made pattern that I can make over and again, accommodating the growing wearer and a quick enough 'make' that she has not grown out of it before it leaves the sewing machine !
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Wednesday, 3 September 2014

Unicorn Dress!

Quite often it occurs that I indulge in a spontaneous fabric purchase before I know what purpose or shape that fabric will take. Whilst pregnant - and once I knew I was expecting a girl, I indulged this weakness to the max, coveting soft brushed cottons, retro patterns that reminded me of my own childhood and exploring the inspiring array of modern fabric designs for little ones. One of these was a gorgeous unicorn design, not a motif I have seen often and in a soft lilac colour that instantly won me over. 
This week, like the Elves and Shoemaker (& after baby's bath and bedtime), the unicorns and I teamed up to transform their raw edges into a tunic top for Eloise. Inspired by another top she has, I decided to use shirring at the neck and arms, partly because I like the pretty, girly frill it gives the line of the neck, but moreover for easy access ! Let me explain... the passing of clothes over this little one's head for dressing/undressing is a task necessarily undertaken with stealth distraction tactics. The accommodating stretch of the shirring makes this job a whole lot easier and the top is on before she has finished her conversation with Rabbit and realises that she has been robed !

First fittings revealed that in my enthusiasm for this additional tactic, I had made the neck a little too big and accessible, creating a kind of 'off the shoulder' number ! She still wore it well, but Mummy saw improvements to be made !
   I toyed with the idea of putting in some  more shirring, but then decided on a sneaky pleat, (gotta love a sneaky pleat!) in the back to bring the neckline in a bit...the kind of sneaky pleat that looks like it was meant to be there all along, but is surreptitiously preforming a problem-solving duty, whilst also sitting very pretty ;o)
So, today, issues resolved, the unicorn dress had its inaugural outing at tea with friends. It stood up well to being wriggled in and to the inevitable milky dribble (and more substantial milky substances) and I think she looks cute as a button and pleased with the result ;o)



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Wednesday, 13 August 2014

'Casual Sweet Clothes, Favourite Pieces for Every Day'

                                             
I love it when an exciting new review copy lands on my doormat and I am particularly fond of the Japanese pattern books being published by Laurence King Publishing. Their latest offering, published this month, is by fashion graduate, Noriko Sasahara, whose clothes designs pop up in advertising, music videos and live performance. The book in her words, caters for ''anyone from novice designers to those more comfortable with a needle'. So, you can try your sewing hand at a simple jersey top with cape sleeves, or a gorgeous flounced edge jacket!

All of the 18 full size patterns in the back incorporate classic, simple shapes, perfect for everyday wear, but with an added embellishment detail to give it that extra touch of elegance. So that a basic V neck shift is perked up with some ruffle cuffs, a classic pencil skirt is cut into pretty tiers and a straight box dress has added lace inserts in the sleeves.
The book's first section details each of the patterns in turn, with cleanly styled photography and tall, (wafer thin), beautiful Japanese models. That's not to say that anyone over a size 8 should overlook this book however! In fact, in truth I think that some of the pieces would show their shape a little better in a more full-some body shape.  

The next section is titled 'How To Make The Garments' and as with all Laurence King pattern books, it gives excellent illustrations and instructions, as well as prefacing this section with a glossary and 'How To' on things like straightening the grain, interfacing and choosing your pattern size - which includes a helpful table of measurements for XS, S, M & L. 
If you are used to using a seam allowance of 5/8 inch, as I am, then note that for these patterns, unless stipulated, it is 3/8 inch (1cm)

All of the patterns are full size, but you are faced with the initially daunting task of finding your chosen pattern pieces on a page of overlapping shapes and lines for several different patterns, printed on the same sheet. I found it helpful to then delineate my pattern pieces using a pink highlighter. You then need to trace your pattern.
I decided to try out the 'Bateau-Neck blouse' below ~ the cute ties at the shoulders caught my eye ;o) :
It is essentially an easy to follow pattern, for a simple front and back top with ties at the shoulders and puff sleeves with elastic. It directs you to cut two front and two back pieces so that you effectively have a lining. I decided to use some of the fabric I purchased on my last Vietnam trip, which I have been unreasonably coveting in a box! It was time for it to be used ! I used a petrol blue for the right side and then a light pistachio green for the inside. With a loose boatneck like this, I liked the way that you get a flash of the green showing on the inside. Also, with the ties at the shoulders you are enjoying both colours of fabric.
The top came together pretty easily and I am really delighted with the finished top. I took the decision not to include the sleeves in the end, feeling that my choice of fabric meant that the top was working pretty well without adding sleeves. If you were to make the top in a light, white cotton or voile as they have done in the picture, then the sleeves work brilliantly...my next project! I have also added a sneaky extra panel in my contrast fabric to make it more of a tunic ! I think I will be wearing this top a lot. The book also includes a rather lovely flounced edged jacket (below), which is also on my sewing wish list!

So, my finished result.....!
 







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Sunday, 29 June 2014

The 'Eloise Dress'.

This week I enjoyed some fabric browsing in the lovely Sewing Shop, Canterbury. Pram safely installed in the shop and Eloise happily cooing with the lovely Aideen, it was a chance to peruse the gorgeous children's prints. Needless to say it wasn't long before I fell upon something gorgeous. Created by Dashwood Studio, a London based textile design company and from their Wildwood series, it incorporates cute hare, fox and owl motifs amongst fairytale trees and flowers.
My first attempt at a dress for Eloise was again a pattern-free adventure ! Seems to be becoming a bit of a habit. I was using a top that she owns already (from a well known baby and child chain!) as my source of inspiration.
It was a rather organic process, (as with my recent tunic top - see previous post) and I was feeling my way a bit - well most of the way ! The end result is actually pretty far removed from its first creative musings, as I veered further off piste following instinct, inspiration and idea towards an unknown end ! Eloise kindly obliged with fittings. There are things I will change next time and a couple of design issues to address, but as a first attempt I am pretty pleased ;o)

Modelled by Eloise Rose.


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Sunday, 22 June 2014

Sewing Off Piste !

Quite some time ago now - whilst carrying a rather large baby load up front, I fell upon some dreamy fabric...well two fabrics actually, that when teamed together I felt made a dreamy pairing. Said fabric purchased, they then sat, visible, but unused in the corner of our Sun Room awaiting a purpose.
After the arrival of little Eloise and her partaking of a little nap one quiet afternoon, I decided to forego the advice of ''nap while baby naps'' (you know who you are ;o) and instead whipped off the tunic top I was wearing, laid it on top of said fabric and cut round it. Not something I've done before...and it felt a bit of a cheat at the time, but hey, new baby...post pregnancy prerogative...I have excuses ;o)
This weekend, I finally managed to finish my somewhat organic and 'off piste', pattern free, homage to my White Stuff tunic and now have my own wearable version.....and I love it ! I tweaked and altered to make it ''my own'', with a bit of creative zig zag stitching to hold some extra pleats in place and some shirring at the back for a bit of extra shaping.
As spontaneous fabric purchases and sewing sessions timed to baby naps go...this is a happy result ! Me, posing with the delphiniums ....
And the obliging baby Eloise Rose that facilitated such a self indulgent sewing exploit...

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Wednesday, 14 May 2014

Baby News !

After a little hiatus on the sewing blog front, I return with happy news of the safe arrival of our little girl, Eloise Rose. Currently sucking and cooing in her bouncer next to me, (I think I've got about ten minutes before the next food alarm ;o) She's a honey and is managing to fill my days (and nights) quite adequately, so it may be a little while yet before the sewing machine gets my attention again. When it does however, I plan to turn my hand to some cute apparel for the little poppet.
Amongst recent sleep deprived musings, I was considering something I had read about babies recognising sounds they have been introduced to in the womb, usually cited is the accompanying music to tv programmes regularly watched by the mother, that the baby, in utero and when born, can then come to associate with Mummy's 'relax time'. Whilst it isn't really a new found theory, I am yet to test it out when I set the whirring thrum of the sewing machine going and see if it has any noticeable soothing affects!
Amongst the many lovely and cherished things for us about having a new baby, has been the amazing number of well wishes, love and gifts and amongst those some very thoughtful hand sewn and knitted
items.

Our precious midwife (and now dear friend), knitted Eloise an adorable cardigan and matching hat, as well as a beautiful pink blanket, shown above. The pom pom cushion was made by me, as a first present from Mama ~ and the last thing I made on my machine before going into hospital have her. 
She is also soothed by the jingly bells in her new patchwork ball, painstakingly (and extraordinarily neatly!) hand sewn by another lovely friend. All things to be cherished...and inspired by ! I must get some knitting underway! But for now, I am summoned. :-)

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